Climbing Churer Rheintal
Haldenstein climbing garden
Haldenstein climbing garden is considered Switzerland's first of its kind. Already in the 1950s it was a popular "playground" for climbers in and around Chur. Thanks to a great restoration effort in 2012/2013, many of the routes have been improved, signed and made safer, and there is a new information board with an overview of all the routes.
The climbing garden along the Rhine is divided in 3 sectors: At the far right, beginner routes with degrees from 3 to 5 ( top rope can be set from above). In the middle section there are partially stripped down tours from 5th to 7th degree, up to 3 ropes lengths long. The longest and most rewarding climbs are at the left-hand side. The routes are well marked and secured. It's not advisable to climb in hot or windy weather, but on a sunny day it's possible to climb even in winter.
The network of routes can get a bit confusing, which requires precise study of the topographic layout and good instincts. The terrain is child-friendly and easily accessible within two minutes.
Route tip "Plattenwand"
Access approx. 20 meters left above the first sector, at the bolt and the conspicuous rock pedestal.
1. Sl 5 From bolt right into the dihedral and from the edge straight to first belaly (belays are one oversized bolt and at least one extra bolt).
2. Sl 6+ Move on upwards to the right along the ledges. A beautiful, stimulating climb. You can skip the next belay and go directly 10 meters to the right into the visible dihedral (don't follow the old bolts or those straight up, 7+!). Follow along up to the belay.
3. Sl 6+\\7- The first bolt is a bit too high to be easily reachable. You can overcame the slight overhang with some imaginative movement using the ledge on the top right. Move flat to belay.
4 Sl 5+ Slab climbing through the big slab. First horizontal to the left, then slightly upwards and before the belay through a flat Haldenstein dihedral.
5. Sl 7 Slighty slippery ledges left towards the overhang, the bold on top of the edge is the best handle. Free? As dessert a nice crack up to the belay on old quarry anchors.
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